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Africa On Your Street at WOMAD |
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A t-shirt walks past printed "We are all Palestinians", another proclaims "La hoja de coca no es droga" (Coca leaf is not a drug). Yes, it's Womad, and the bliss is free. The sun smiled on Reading for most of this year's three-day world music fest, and pretty much everyone smiled back. The West Africans stood out as having just that extra, intangible something, something altogether human and rich and inspiring What about the music? There were one or two big fish (Drummers of Burundi, Zap Mama, Rokia Traore), and even some not usually associated with roots music (Nigel Kennedy, David Byrne), but for some of us the action of the weekend centred on a little spot just west of Yurtworks, east of Lush Dresses for Goddesses and south of The Hemp Store, at the World On Your Street tent. Here's where I declare an interest: part of my day job at the BBC is supporting the incomparable Tessa Watt in running the World On Your Street and Africa On Your Street projects. But I swear, even if it weren't I would want to tell you about the unforgettable experiences of the weekend, and especially Friday's Africa On Your Street day. The World On Your Street tent, generously adorned with hangings, rugs and cushions, holds about 50 people, but the crowds which gathered outside swelled to several hundred to hear the musicians. Four acts formed the Africa On Your Street showcase, South Africa's Doreen Thobekile, from Senegal the duo of Seydina Insa Wade and Oumar Sow, the Algerian trio El-Andalus and Cameroonian Coco Mbassi. But the twist of Africa On Your Street (and the wider World On Your Street project), is that it's a UK showcase for musicians from many different backgrounds who live and work here, and thus the name. (Fits nicely with the Fly ethos too, don't you think?) So in fact all of these musicians are also Londoners, with the exception of Sow, who's based in Northern Ireland, and Wade, who was visiting from Senegal. Coco Mbassi likewise brought us a set with no sharp edges, but plenty of play and barrels of vocal skill, accompanying herself inventively with eggshells, hand-rubbing and home-made percussion Thobekile started the day off in fine style, singing and playing mbiras and traditional accordion, undaunted by the attentions of a musical bee. El-Andalus (fiddle, oud and percussion) were jaw-droppingly acrobatic, with the tightest endings I've heard outside salsa, and at their best combined a highly professional technique with a kind of frenzied excitement. But as usual, the West Africans stood out as having just that extra, intangible something, something altogether human and rich and inspiring. Sow and Wade are veterans of the Senegalese scene, who have witnessed and influenced the rise of Youssou N'Dour and Baaba Maal. The emotion of their reunion for Womad was infectious, and a reminder that in a scene with ever slicker production values, two acoustic guitars, a singer (Wade) and some genuine communication can still take you to the furthest places (not to mention dress sense -- Wade wins my prize for the coolest threads in Reading). Coco Mbassi likewise brought us a set with no sharp edges, but plenty of play and barrels of vocal skill (honed in her days in the back line for the likes of Salif Keita and Oumou Sangare), accompanying herself inventively with eggshells, hand-rubbing and home-made percussion, and accompanied with brilliant sensitivity by her husband and co-producer Serge Ngando Mpondo on guitar. Perhaps the highlight of her set was a beautiful song from her Paris days sung from the point of view of a beggar on the Métro. Unlike some Womad artists, she certainly got the best out of her audience participation, talking to us like good friends and deploying some very convincing flattery. There's not room here to cover Saturday's Latin America On Your Street day, or the grand finale on Sunday, but Argentinian Londoner Guillermo Rozenthuler is certainly a tip for anyone within striking distance of the Big Smoke. As for me, I really should be experiencing the post-Womad blues, especially since I came home a day early more than 48 hours ago, but I'm not. I'm still feeling the joy. 6 August Stop Press: You can now hear all of these gigs on the Radio 3 website. Check out Africa On Your Street on BBC Radio 3. |
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COMMENTS I think this piece perfectly captures the ambience of WOMAD. Was it just me or did you get the feeling that the whole scene had grown up and moved on from the sterile authentic/fusion debate and into something far more expansive and interesting? It was certainly refreshing to see what a wide range of people are into the music - and boy were they into it - dancing and interacting. |
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| Europe: City Guides/Events Congotronics vs Rockers + The Skeletons - Barbican Hall, Tuesday 12 July 2011 Dennis Coffey + Alice Russell, Mayer Hawthorne -- XOYO, Monday 27 June 2011 Oumou Sangare - Barbican, London, 30 June '11 Music Documentaries at Sheffield Doc/Fest 2011 - 8-12 June, 2011 Celebrating Sanctuary London 2011 - Sunday, 19 June 2011, 2 - 7pm |
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Nice. Womad.